Curiel Presents “Veils Between” For Milan Fashion Week SS27
A presentation with no models may sound boring, or it may bring an intense, energized focus to the clothing at hand. News flash: Curiel’s SS27 for Milan Fashion Week (MFW) executed the latter.
Founded in Milan in 1908, Curiel is a historic Italian house shared by four generations of women and more than a century of design, craftsmanship and culture. Their MFW presentation, located at the Casa Curiel, their house studio and headquarters on Via Monte Napoleone, was more subdued; traditional even, compared to the antics of other brands like Diesel or Vogue World.
Designs were tailored yet fluid, using lightweight cotton-linens and translucent pastel velvets to build an airy ambiance around the strong construction. The colors themselves also play into this strong yet feminine palette, utilizing tones inspired by the various layers and history behind Roman walls, such as limestone grey, soft pink, khaki, violet, and muddy olive.
Various suiting treatments played a major role in the collection, alongside ethereal gowns. A personal favorite included a powerful black tailored suit skirt set, with a neckline sharply jutting out toward the shoulders. Bonus: It comes in a powerful cherry red as well. Its one true pairing in dress form was a black mid-length sheath dress with a boat-like neckline, curving around to a beautiful plunging, open back, topped off with oversized sailor collar across the shoulder blades.
Other standouts included the use of french embroidery, pleating, and understated embellishments, such as the black pleated tea-length skirt with tiered draping on the hip or the white puff sleeve skirt set.
“An exploration of the delicate tension between structure, air and the body. A presence that lingers between garment and skin…layers expressed in the softest of voices,” is how the brand describes this SS27 collection, and it makes perfect sense.
Soft structure came through in garments like the asymmetrical brown gown twisted and draped to reveal what looks like a traditional button-up’s sleeves down the back, or the black blazer dress with large shoulders and a funky bottom: half pouf, half tiered-draping.
Naturally, if the garments are playing in the tension between air and the body, perfume was the instinctive addition. The scents Tubino and Aria, two fragrances first introduced more than three decades ago, were newly released and presented to the public during the presentation, ahead of the commercial launch later this year.
“Veils Between” is seemingly the brand’s reach to pull its heritage into the contemporary. From expanding upon older silhouettes, its longstanding partnership with the global capital of opera, La Scala, to working with a modern favorite photographer Szilveszter Makó to build the brand’s foundational imagery, we see its ebb and flow between elegance, excitement and above all else, Italian Alta Moda, couture.
SS27 Photos by Antonio Miucci, FW26 photos by Szilveszter Makó.
Courtesy of REP Agency and Curiel.
Models Sky and Aslaug.
