“Innocence” As Punk: NOWRUBI Debuts AW26 at Berlin Fashion Week
Runways are meant to take you on a journey, a narrative told through textiles and silhouettes instead of letters and words. NOWRUBI’s Autumn/Winter ‘26 Berlin Fashion Week collection tells a story of archetypes, innocence and designer Ruben Nowak’s adolescence into adulthood.
Taking place at the Alte Münze, a historic mint in Berlin-Mitte, NOWRUBI’s show titled, “Innocence” begins with the sounds of children playing over the sound system. Slow and steady, the sound of bass began to filter through the noise, building intensity into a piano instrumental and bold opening look.
Model Jazz Ameinah brought immediate energy to the show, wearing a white fur hooded bolero, a white metallic corset, and white fur bottoms to coordinate, all bouncing with every step.
Production was minimal, likely to focus on the garments at hand. As the music progressed, so did the looks. For example, Look 4 jumps from a workwear-meets-couture denim pleated jumpsuit, to Look 5, a sweatpants suit decorated with exaggerated, fur square structures protruding from the shoulders.
As the looks progressed, music molded to the narrative as well, transitioning from piano instrumental to a more upbeat trap beat, integrating denim, distressing and fur textures.
From the visual language of flannel, asymmetrical collars, exaggerated necklines, and the occasional sequin shimmer, the collection felt like breaking out of the box, while still maintaining a wearable, everyday style. Take for example the heathered gray skirt sweatsuit, corseted on the front and bottom in pink ribbon. Feminine, but experimental. Whimsical, but toned down.
Designer Ruben Nowak filled us in on the storyline.
“The collection was all about growing up, taking different perspectives of a childhood,” Nowak said. “There are three phases. Be a Dreamer, Be a little Rebel, and Stay brave.”
The brand’s website further elaborates on each phase, and the way that body and behavior interact with growing up. The first chapter of life is full of imagination, fluid identities, and unlimited possibilities. Dreams know no rules and the future appears as an open promise.
The second phase of rebellion is showcased through structure. The website states, “Innocence meets resistance, freedom meets conflict - a phase of defiance and self-definition, of searching for individuality and identity.”
The final phase addresses adulthood: routines, responsibilities, and the feeling of being confined by professional life. The collection looks back on the dreams of childhood dreams with the hope that some have been preserved, others fulfilled, and that the courage remains to continue following them.
Woven within the narrative, we see the designer’s consistent language and technique throughout. Well-tailored pieces, like the hooded bodycon dress or the structured denim belted top and peplum baggy pants reflect the designer’s background in the German Air Force. While other looks, like Look 2 with the striped denim and plaid patchwork nods towards the brand’s sustainable made-to-order model.
For many of the models, hair and makeup were moody and sleek. Concealed eyebrows with smoky dark eye looks, and the first phase of looks utilized heavy blush to convey a childish, youthful feeling.
When model Nino Bar came out in an elevated punk look, complete with liberty spikes in his hair, and a tweed-inspired puffer with spikes across the back, the music also transformed the energy on the runway–– from drill to rock.
“The vibe was really relaxed, everything felt structured, organized. The show went amazing, the team and the fits were amazing, so I’m happy,” Bar said.
As the show neared its end, the music lulls, changing into the sound of a heart monitor into a calm instrumental, ultimately ending in a flat line heart.
“When it flatlines, it signifies that everything is over, and we need to reflect on our days, make your life count,” Nowak said.
Select items that were seen on the runway, such as the sequined plaid button-ups and suede black coats with fur trim, will be part of the brand’s new ready-to-wear collection, launching Sunday, Feb. 1.
Innocence and self-expression, no matter what that looks like, is rebellion in a world of trying to constantly be cooler than the person next to you.
According to the NOWRUBI website, the brand is a, “tribute to transformation, the courage to break free from strict systems to embrace individuality.” This was Nowak’s official Berlin Fashion Week debut, and with a strong production behind the looks, it does feel uniquely NOWRUBI. Not following trends, but paving their own way. Not settling into just one aesthetic, but encouraging experimentation, blending subcultures and various pieces of your identity.
All photos provided by Sven Görlich, @sven.goerlich.
