Thomas Hanisch Returns from Fashion Week Hiatus
Just from stalking Thomas Hanisch’s online presence, I knew the collection would be at a baseline, good. The expertly molded and sewn PVC vinyl and leather pieces I scrolled through gave me a sense of his craftsmanship, but the runway laid his wildest imaginations on the line— sharp, primal, and refined.
Thomas Hanisch returned to the Berlin Fashion Week stage from a 10-year hiatus comeback. The brand was founded in 2013 after Hanisch graduated from ESMOD Berlin, quickly gaining attention from his BFW shows in 2015 and 2017. Specializing in womenswear and drag queen costuming, Hanisch has had a knack for dramatic silhouettes and structural, artistic designs since the beginning.
Located at the industrial M60 Hallesches Ufer space overlooking Berlin, the AW26 production was clean, juxtaposing the hair, makeup, garments and well, really everything else.
One of the opening looks, worn by Naima Estrella and complemented by a heavy techno remix of Rosalia’s Berghain, was a black explosion of feathers on top, jutting out towards the face and away from the body, with a knit distressed skirt hugging the figure. Naima’s hair was curly but tousled, with dark shadowy makeup, and eyes that could kiss and kill — eyes like Skaarsgard’s “IT”, in the sexiest way.
The nails were a consistent statement from the opening look until the closing. Created by designer Thomas Hanisch’s boyfriend Krisztian, the majority of the models had exaggerated, beastly nails that extended out as long as a finger— pointed, textured and various translucent shades of black, white and gray.
Every ensemble was a standout look, from the hair, makeup and accessories, while still maintaining consistency across the entire collection. Hair and wigs were done by Deeonis, Matilda Kreuter, and Manto Kamari, sculpting wispy, teased, voluminous updos. Black and white feathers were seamlessly blended into the hair for many models. Only a few hairstyles throughout the collection were not tousled but still voluminous– sculpted to look sleek and swept back by the wind, almost like a Xenomorph out of Alien.
Makeup was done by a large beauty team including La Biosthetique Paris and focused on concealed brows, red and black smokey eye looks, and dramatic cupid’s bow lip lining. Think the Red Queen of Hearts from Alice in Wonderland, probably after a night out at Berghain and KitKat.
According to the Berlin Fashion Week press room, the show Entitled “EXOS” explores, “protection as power, where nature’s defenses transform into couture. Opulent volumes, sculptural silhouettes, and transformed materials redefine the body as presence, not apology.”
There was definitely nothing apologetic about this collection, and for the better. The use of horns, fur, and feathers gave emphasis to this otherworldly fantasy while still uplifting the human form.
Antelope antlers were utilized in unconventional ways, basically any other way than on the models head, as would be expected. Some looks had them wrapped around the neck as a choker necklace, and another look had horns wrapped around the neck, holding up the fabric draped over the bust, falling freely and almost daintily, despite the dark energy.
My personal favorite look was the leather patchwork mermaid gown with a long train. This Helena-Bonham-Carter-meets-Edward-Scissorhands look used various sizes horns as dramatic spikes on the black leather gloves and on the choker.
Even in looks like the minimalist, full-length button up dress with an exaggerated wing tip collar and inverted pleats down the torso and skirt, it feels well-tailored yet edgy and effortless. Worn by model Innesa Fuks-Heumann, the subject fills her role as beautiful beast with puffed angel wings on her back, adorned with none other than black feathers. Every look was paired with red bottom Christian Louboutin heels, elevating and refining the otherwise grungy looks.
EXOS, the latin term for “boneless” or in reference to an exoskeleton, Thomas Hanisch’s comeback collection is an avant garde ode to finding beauty in a nightmarish underworld. This show, from the music to the makeup to the choice of textiles and color palette, felt both the most ‘Berlin’ and the most me.
Some looks feel more wearable than others, with models constricted by their design, while other flow hauntingly down the runway, but all are protruding and oozing with strong design and narrative. After many years of being a custom designer for VIP clients like Lady Gaga, Hanisch has stepped back into the runway spotlight and is raising hell (in the best way).
Runway photos by Andreas Hofrichter. Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week.
Backstage photos by Dominik Odenkirchen. Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week.
